Production

From fabric waste to yarn

The entire production process at Edelweiss is carried out in-house, starting from textile waste (coming from production scraps during weaving or garment production, as well as from used clothing), which is shredded to bring it back to a fibre state and then spun into yarn, passing through carding, Open-End or Dref spinning, and, possibly, plying and twisting.

Processing phases

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Fraying

In this initial phase, we prepare the semi-finished product that will be used in the following stages: the secondary raw material purchased by the company consists of processing scraps from the textile industry or post-consumer waste (e.g. used clothing). These are first roughly cut and then transported to a mixing cell to make the material as homogeneous as possible. The material then enters the tearing machine, which, through spiked drums, returns it to a fibres state, in flakes. At this point, the semi-finished product is temporarily packaged to be used when needed, depending on the “mix“ needed in production.

Blending

Following the instructions from the Research and Development department, which analyses the available raw materials (in stock or available from suppliers) and determines the best “recipe” for the requested yarn, with its specific technical and colour characteristics, the necessary semi-finished fibre products (shoddy) are selected. These are then mixed in the correct proportions in consecutive blending cells to achieve the best possible fibre homogeneity.

Carding

The material is conveyed into the carding machine, where the “carding” occurs between a drum rotating at high speed and a series of flat-surfaced wires (carding couple). The drum is covered with steel pins that align the fibres and create a continuous sliver at the output, which is automatically inserted into special containers (so called “pots”).

Spinning

The carded sliver is sent to the spinning phase, which can be carried out using Open-End or Dref spinners, depending on the desired result.

The Open-End spinner (open-end ring) consists of a rotor rotating at very high speed that is fed with the sliver. Thanks to centrifugal force, the sliver spreads and adheres to the surface of the rotor. The rotor wraps the fibres around itself, creating the yarn. To achieve the desired yarn strength, the correct number of twists per meter (tpm) must be defined. The Open-End yarn has good strength and a more compact appearance. Dref spinning instead uses a rotating component with slots or channels (rotor), which opens, rotates, and twists the fibres together around a continuous core thread. This method, used for coarser yarn counts, allows for greater flexibility in fibre selection and provides a softer yarn. In “single” yarns production ends with this phase, while to obtain a “twisted” yarn, two further phases are required.

Pairing

This phase consists of pairing two or more yarns in such a way as to create a bobbin with the yarns parallel to each other. he yarn thus obtained, called “plied yarn,” can be used as is in some specific processes (such as the production of special cleaning brushes), or it can be preparatory to the subsequent twisting phase, where the plied yarn is twisted upon itself, resulting in increased strength and lower final count.

Twisting

Twisting is the processing phase in which two or more yarns are wound together with a twist (measured in the number of twists per meter). Twisting gives the yarn greater strength and stability, making it suitable for applications in the production of more durable fabrics. Additionally, it can also influence the aesthetic appearance of the fabric, creating different effects compared to single yarn.

Types of yarns

Spinning methods

Open-End
Open-End is generally the most efficient spinning method. Yarns produced with Open-End machines can have various compositions, containing cotton, wool, polyester, acrylic, and other synthetic fibres, and can be used in a variety of applications including weaving, knitting, and non-woven fabric production.
Edelweiss Open-End production can range in count from Nm 2 to 20.
Dref
Dref spinning allows for the widest versatility in the use of raw materials and fibre types.
These yarns are known for their strength, stability, and consistency, as well as having a softer appearance.
They are often used in applications requiring strong and durable yarns, such as the production of technical fabrics, upholstery, workwear, ropes, carpets, and professional cleaning tools.
Edelweiss Dref production can range in count from Nm 1 to 2.

Composition

Thanks to its expertise, Edelweiss is able to offer customized yarns based on the specific requests of the customer. The composition of the yarns, whether Open-End or Dref, varies depending on several factors: primarily the desired final technical characteristics, as well as the required colour (which comes entirely from the fibre mix, excluding any dyeing) and, last but not least, the correct balance between regenerated fibre (which, coming from mixed textile waste, is inherently variable) and other fibres needed to obtain the desired result.

In recent years, in line with the commitment to further reduce its environmental impact, Edelweiss has added to the various fibres from textile waste used for its yarns the use of polyester from recycled plastic bottles, with excellent results in terms of yarn quality.

Approximately 80% of Edelweiss’s current production is cotton-based, with slight quantities of wool and linen, and recently, a small production of FDA polypropylene Dref yarn (certified for contact with food) has been added, mainly sold in the filtration sector. This yarn is offered in standard version or with additional features that reduce foam production during filtration (e.g., washed or low foam).

Numbers

TONS/YEAR PRODUCTION CAPACITY
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TONS/YEAR ACTUAL
PRODUCTION
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EMPLOYEES
 
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OPERATIVE HEADS IN SPINNING MACHINERY (1.800 Open-End + 54 Dref)
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MQ PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT
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MQ WAREHOUSE

 
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Flexibility

Thanks to its lean management, Edelweiss can offer a highly flexible service, both in terms of product, designed and developed according to the specific needs of the customer, and in terms of production timing.

The possibility to rely on different types of machinery, each suitable for different yarn types and counts, allows for production optimization and high efficiency.

With 60 years of experience in recycled yarns, personalized consultancy is provided, considering the final use of the product and thus the main necessary characteristics, as well as the best composition and production methods, to achieve the best product in the shortest time possible.

End-uses

Thanks to the company flexibility and products variety, the uses of yarns produced by Edelweiss are countless, many of which are probably yet to be discovered!

Currently, they are employed in:

  • Clothing (mainly wool)
  • Home textiles (e.g. carpets, curtains, towels, bedspreads, mattresses, sofa covers, upholstery)
  • Conveyor belts
  • Professional cleaning tools (e.g. cleaning cloths, mops)
  • Ropes and braids
  • Filtration (cartridges and flat fabric)

However, their usage is constantly evolving and expanding!

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Markets

Once, regenerated yarn was chosen more for economic reasons than ethical ones. Nowadays, the majority of our customers are conscious consumers, who recognize the intrinsic value of this yarn and strive to convey this value to those who purchase or use their products.

Currently, Edelweiss sales are almost evenly distributed between Italy and abroad.

In Italy, the majority of customers are concentrated in the Central-Northern regions, with different demands for specific yarns depending on the type of production district.

Abroad, Edelweiss customers are primarily located in Northern European countries such as Finland and Sweden, the United Kingdom, the Netherlands, Belgium, Denmark, as well as France, Germany, Poland, Romania, Lithuania and many more in the World.

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