Regenerating waste
Breathing new life to what was once considered waste, safeguarding resources, operating with seriousness and reliability: this is the goal and the heart of the company.
Since its foundation in 1965, when the concept of textile pollution was still unknown to most, Edelweiss has chosen an alternative path, believing that, as it happens in nature, nothing should be wasted but it should instead transform into something useful again.
A mission whose importance grows year by year to try to limit the environmental impact of the fast-fashion industry, which has now become one of the major causes of pollution worldwide.
The process is that of a circular economy, which resembles the ecosystem of nature where nothing is wasted and everything serves a purpose; a model to pursue to be pioneers and advocates for a change of course that is of paramount importance for the planet.
At Edelweiss, the entire regeneration process takes place within the facility: starting from the shredding of textile waste (pre- and post-consumer), which returns the material to a fibre state, and thanks to the subsequent blending phase, which makes the fibre homogeneous, a new raw material (the so-called secondary raw material) is obtained, ready to be spun again, using either Open-End or Dref machinery, depending on the composition and desired result.
The regenerated yarn can then be used in a wide variety of productions: from the textile sector to cleaning, filtration, the creation of conveyor belts, ropes and strings, and much more.
Compared to the use of virgin cotton, the environmental benefits are countless.
Firstly, it avoids the enormous water consumption required for cotton cultivation, as well as the pollution resulting from the chemicals used in cultivation (pesticides, fertilizers, and everything else used to maximize plant growth).
Additionally, the machinery and vehicles necessary for running agricultural operations for cotton production require a lot of fuel: several sources in the United States state that, on average, 19 gigajoules are needed to produce one ton of fibre; 1 GJ of energy is equivalent to the energy contained in 28 litres of gasoline.
Furthermore, by regenerating and utilizing textile waste, CO2 pollution associated with transportation for importing together with water and chemical pollution related to dyeing are reduced (none of our yarns or raw materials undergo dyeing, but colours are obtained by blending pre-dyed raw materials).
The last benefit, but perhaps the most immediately evident one, is that it prevents textile waste from being incinerated as waste, creating additional CO2, or alternatively ending up increasing the volume of open-air textile landfills, increasingly widespread in the Third World.
Secondary raw materials
The raw materials used (textile waste) come from both pre- and post-consumer sources. Industrial textile waste (pre-consumer) includes everything used in the garment production process: from yarn, to fabric, to tailoring (scraps, trims, cut-offs, or unusable parts), while post-consumer waste encompasses anything that has been somehow used (clothing, as well as any other textile), which cannot enter reuse channels (1st and 2nd choice) and therefore is no longer considered usable as it is.
The selection of suppliers becomes crucial for the company, as they need to align with corporate values and meet certain requirements (certifications and more), to ensure textile waste of good quality as well as free from any harmful substances. Supplier reliability is indeed the first step in offering a quality product, both in terms of performance and safety of use.
Edelweiss suppliers are able to offer raw materials certified according to the international GRS (Global Recycle Standard) and Oekotex standards, allowing Edelweiss to certify its own production processes to offer, upon request, GRS and Oekotex certified yarns.
The textile waste purchased inherently has different compositions: generally, at Edelweiss, a predominance of cotton is preferred. Depending on the yarn desired features, waste with a predominance of wool, viscose, etc., may also be purchased, or, in a smaller portion and only where strictly necessary, virgin raw materials.
Over 90% of the raw materials purchased by Edelweiss come from textile waste.
Even polyester, used in some yarns, can come from recycled material (in this case, from used plastic bottles): thus, Edelweiss is able to offer 100% regenerated yarns.
Research and Development
True “creative mind” of the company, the Research and Development department creates the best “recipe” to fulfil the customer’s needs, both in terms of thread characteristics and colour tones.
It is only thanks to its 60 years of experience in the creation of regenerated yarns that Edelweiss can achieve excellent results and offer its customers a product perfectly tailored to their requests and needs.
The variables that the Research and Development department faces are multiple and largely depend on the secondary raw materials available for purchase. It is necessary to search for the best solution for yarn production, considering:
Since the raw materials consist of waste, it is not always possible to find a precise colour for a variety of reasons: low production in the previous period, high demand in the regenerated market, etc.
The composition of the purchased secondary raw material varies significantly intrinsically: in the case of industrial waste it depends on the characteristics needed for the final product, in the case of post-consumer waste, the variable of waste mix is added.
Colour in Edelweiss is always obtained without dyeing: it is therefore necessary to calibrate the colour sources, which are always different due to the hues available on the market. Every time a specific tone is desired, it will be necessary to calibrate the various percentages in a new way. Since they depend on different sources, the colour tone of different batches is unlikely to be exactly the same: for this reason, in case of a need for identical tones, the solution can only be the production of a larger quantity. Usually, the customer sensitive to the value of regenerated yarn is aware of this characteristic and tends to communicate it as added value, as a clear testimony of the origin and uniqueness of the product.
Depending on the type of production and the final product that will be created by the customer, different characteristics may be required: higher strength in the case of weaving and knitting, increased absorbency for cleaning products, yarn appearance (stiffer or softer), and many others. Since the waste must undergo cutting and shredding to return to fibre, it will inevitably be shorter and will require the addition of a higher percentage of stronger fibres and/or different processing to increase its strength.
All these characteristics are achieved by the Research and Development department by blending different fibres, both natural and synthetic, coloured and uncoloured, and setting production parameters (use of Open-End or Dref machines, twist ratio, etc.). In some cases, recycled polyester obtained from used plastic bottles can be added to the regenerated cotton to produce yarns that are 100% regenerated!
Every time a new batch of yarn is produced, numerous trials and tests are implemented before proceeding to production, and, when necessary, the sample yarn undergoes customer approval before being produced.
Colours without dyeing
Thanks to its Research and Development department’s long-standing experience, Edelweiss can boast one of its main strengths: the endless range of colours achieved without resorting to any dyeing process (and without magic… or perhaps just a pinch!)
When considering the impact of the textile industry on the environment, thoughts immediately turn to the quantity of waste ending up in incinerators or open-air landfills, but less frequently we think about the dyes used in the production of such garments.
The primary ecological issue related to dyeing is the enormous amount of water used in the process: globally, the textile industry consumes between six and nine trillion litres of water per year, and this is just for dyeing fabrics; this figure equates to filling more than two million Olympic-sized swimming pools with fresh water every year.
In addition, about 3/4 of the water consumed for dyeing textiles becomes non-potable waste water: a toxic mixture composed of dyes, alkalis, heavy metals, and chemicals used to fix the colour on the fabric, which requires a very expensive filtration process to be treated (and unfortunately, especially in developing countries, this process is sometimes avoided by illegally dumping toxic waters into rivers, causing enormous environmental damage).
The innovative and pioneering production process developed at Edelweiss allows for a considerable reduction in the environmental impact of dyeing: textile waste, already dyed during its previous production, does not lose its value by being destroyed, but instead gains a new life by returning to the fibre state (already coloured), and then mixed and spun again. The coloured fibres are blended like colours on a palette, in varying percentages to achieve the right shade, while maintaining attention to the necessary textile composition that ensures adequate yarn characteristics.
Energy sources
Reducing the impact of textile waste, maintaining its value by regenerating rather than destroying it, avoiding resource wastage, mitigating the environmental impact of dyeing (while also preserving the value of pre-dyed fibres), limiting CO2 emissions, and continuously optimizing an environmentally and socially responsible production process… What about energy sources? Yes, the fibres regeneration process requires itself a considerable amount of energy!
Also in this regard, Edelweiss has chosen to pursue the path of sustainability, following a carefully monitored and progressively improved path year after year, increasingly implementing the use of renewable energy.
As of today, the entire coverage of the company buildings is covered with solar panels, providing a substantial 910 kWh, powering a significant portion of our production.
Everything that has been achieved so far is certainly something to be proud of, but Edelweiss’s commitment does not stop here. The goal is to continue in the coming years following the path laid out three generations ago, aiming for even greater sustainability, acting to further reduce our footprint on the planet.
Certifications and commitment
Edelweiss was born with the aim of giving new life to textile waste, creating regenerated yarns for the production of new fabrics, therefore always intrinsically committed to sustainability and low environmental impact. The company boasts having the entire yarn regeneration production cycle in-house, from the shredding of textile waste to the production of yarn, either single or twisted.
In this 360-degree perspective of environmental sustainability, Edelweiss can offer two main certifications for its yarns: GRS and Oeko-Tex® Standard 100. Each of them certifies a particular aspect of the company and its products.
GRS (Global Recycle Standard). GRS is recognized as the most important international standard for sustainable production of garments and textile products made from recycled materials. This voluntary and comprehensive standard is promoted by Textile Exchange, one of the most important international non-profit organizations for responsible and sustainable development in the textile sector. The standard recognizes the importance of recycling for the growth of a sustainable production and consumption model, with the aim of promoting the reduction of resource consumption (virgin raw materials, water and energy) and increasing the quality of recycled products.
GRS involves the issuance of a third-party verified environmental statement that ensures the content of recycled materials in the products, both intermediate and finished, maintaining traceability throughout the entire production process, restrictions on the use of chemicals, and compliance with environmental and social criteria in all stages of the production chain (from material recycling to subsequent manufacturing stages to labelling of the final product). The phases not covered by the certification include waste collection, sorting, selection, and grouping. Products and manufacturing activities and processes through which recycled material is used to make intermediate products (e.g., yarns and fabrics) or finished products for consumers, using management models and procedures that comply with the established requirements, can be certified according to GRS.
Oeko-Tex ® Standard 100 is an internationally standardized, independent control and certification system for raw materials, semi-finished products, and finished textile products at every stage of processing, as well as for accessories used. OEKO-TEX® checks for toxic substances are primarily designed considering the intended use of fabrics and materials. The more intense the contact of a product with the skin and the more sensitive the skin, the stricter the human-ecological requirements to be met.
Product classes are distinguished as follows:
- Product Class I: Items for babies and young children up to 3 years old (underwear, bodysuits, clothing, bed linens, towels, etc.)
- Product Class II: Items used in direct contact with the skin (underwear, bed linens, t-shirts, socks, etc.)
- Product Class III: Products not in direct contact with the skin (jackets, coats, etc.)
- Product Class IV: Furnishing/decorative materials (curtains, tablecloths, upholstery fabrics, etc.)
Edelweiss is certified for Product Class I.
Thanks to its decades of experience, STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX® helps ensure high and effective product safety from a consumer perspective. Verification criteria and limit values are far more demanding than the parameters valid at national and international levels. Careful product checks and periodic company audits also help raise industry awareness for responsible chemical use, in the long term and on a global scale.
Code of ethics
The code of ethics of Edelweiss consists of the Social Responsibility Policy and Environmental Policy and is binding for the conduct of all its collaborators. Furthermore, Edelweiss requires its main suppliers to adhere to the general principles of this code. The Code of Ethics is valid both in Italy and abroad, considering the cultural, social and economic diversity of the various countries in which Edelweiss operates.
